My arrival in Hawaii was nothing like I expected it. No hula dancers, no flower thingies around the neck. Hell no sunshine! The whole airport was flooded and a few cleaners were trying really hard to get the floors to an agreeable wet state.

Even more unexpected was my first day surfing. I took a Malibu and went out on Waikiki beach — first try I was able to stand up do a turn and a nose walk. Man was I proud. So the second day some surfer dudes took me out for some real waves. HARDCORE — it took me ages to get out to the line up. Totally exhausted I find myself in 2 meter swell, stocked to catch a wave. And I did!

At one point one of the dudes told me my knee was bleeding. «Yeah well you didn't say anything about rocks out here» I answered him. So he goes «Well yeah, but out here is sharks broh, you might wanna get back to the beach...»

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